This is probably one of the most important aspects (even if a general statement) to keep a healthy aquarium.
To blunt it even more, gave them my experience in the maintenance literally 1000 of aquariums me a unique perspective compared to a mere hobby. What I mean is that I (or my employees) with many customers aquariums were only once a week or less, so I sure do not have the luxury to be able to make sure everything is okay with these fish every day (a sort of as the average hobbyist leaving every week for one or two weeks vacation and hope everything would be OK).
So I had on each parameter and path to a healthy aquarium keeping, and I could not hold on to the aquarium many myths that still hover in the hobby to keep my customers are looking to leave dead fish. Like the myth of UV sterilization, or on the quality of many popular brands of fish food. I have done everything in tests against UV sterilization, aquarium electrolytes, redox potential, fish food, filtration, purification processes on the aquarium cycling.
What I found that if all elements of prevention are practiced by good filtration and maintenance, quality of feeding fish meal (it always surprises me to this day, Spirulina 20 Flake is not known, given the enormous differences that I have seen Feeding this fish-eating), saw the continuation of the right electrolyte levels, an appropriate redox levels, and UV sterilization, I had very few casualties and many of my newer clients the difference after the switch to my service. This is not to say that these are all essential, but the more prevention Aquarium procedures follow the healthier, more colorful and your fish will live longer. I have had in many forums to criticize attempts to use me for aquarists in equipment such as UV sterilizers frightened, but I think it is far from being as everyone should not, what are the risks and possible ways to the healthiest Aquarium possible. In other words, it would be honest, someone to tell their little goldfish they won at a carnival will give it just fine in a bowl and do not need anything more? I do not think so. My results speak for themselves.
[1] Clean:
Regular quality water changes are extremely important. By quality I do not over clean water by catching fish and wash the gravel. You want to use a gravel vacuum and do not affect water change, that the fish as little as possible. The purpose of this is organic deposits before they cut fully through the nitrogen cycle, eventually increasing your Nitrates and pH, and remove to go with it. You also want to de-chlorinate the water so as not to stress out the fish or the environment. There are many good products for you: Prime, Start Right, Stress Coat, just to name a few.
Another indication of regular water changes, which are also important if the fish are sick as well, carried out before each treatment. This change of water should also wipe a thorough “” down “(the glass on all sides) to expel algae that harbor pathogens.
[2] Good filtration:
I recommend two filters for redundancy, and I never really throw all the media, but I rinse the filter media used in part of aquarium water in order to remove true) Benefits (aerobic) bacteria for proper biological filtration (ammonia and nitrite. Sponge Pre-Filters are a great addition to the HOB filter and in particular to improve bio-filtration, especially during the filter media changes.
Note that the primary function of filters to remove waste mechanically and biologically. If your filter does not perform these basic tasks, you need to change or improve your filter.
If you have a shell that is so difficult, so regular water changes (in a dish, I recommend about 2 / 3 water change) and the addition of products such as Wonder shells in water quality of aid between water changes is important
[3] With UV Sterilization:
UV disinfection prevent many bacteria, fungi, protozoa and disease. They also help with oxidation properties (Redox Potential) of water and thus, the clarity of the water. This is not necessarily, however, UV sterilization is another piece of the puzzle for the prevention of diseases
[4] Do not overfeed! Also QUALITY feed fish food (not the hype about brands that dominate the market)
Use high-quality, water-based foods, not foods high in cereals, beef proteins and fats, proteins, and soy. Also foods high in useless amino acids (which make up proteins) in their nitrogenous waste, in turn, will ultimately add up to higher nitrates, which, although they are a big problem, prolonged exposure to high nitrate will weaken fish and lower resistance to diseases .
Some good brands: HBH, Ocean Nutrition, Blue Lagoon, Sanyu, Hikari, Spirulina 20, and Omega. Some brands to avoid: Tetra, Hartz.
[5] See Water Chemistry:
Such pH, ammonia (0), nitrite (0), nitrate (below 30 ppm), hardness, KH (80 ppm or higher, depending on the fish), ECT. Note that ammonia is more toxic at a higher pH value! A GH around 80 ppm provides the necessary calcium for proper osmotic processes and healing of infections and wounds.
Calcium, magnesium and electrolytes are an often forgotten component of the right aquarium health, but they are essential! For more information, please see this article: “Calcium, KH, and magnesium in aquariums; How to make a real KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important to keep.”
With respect to pH will spend many aquarium too much time trying to chase a “perfect” pH, when a stable pH is more important (and I in the 1000s of aquariums I have at various pH and other parameters maintained can speak). I’ve seen Discus (a fish that comes out of the water, often under 6th 5) breed in aquariums with a pH above 7 5. What is stress is a pH, which is not stable, therefore a good KH or acid buffer is important. What I have found much more important is electrolytes and calcium (which is also available on a good redox potential), as a perfect so-called pH. The disc in my treatment was much healthier with a KH of 50 ppm, a GH around 100 ppm and a redox potential at -300 mV than with a pH below 6 years. Note 5 (please note that these figures only apply to disk, for many fish such as livebearers I gave a much higher KH and GH).
High levels of ammonia and nitrite to fish extremely vulnerable to infections and eventually kill the fish outright.
Prolonged nitrate content exceeding 50 ppm will stunt growth of fish and lower fish immunity.
Nitrate (together with redox) no problems for the health of the fish, which is short term and ammonia, but the statement that nitrates are not toxic to another aquarium to keep the myth. Nitrate over 30 ppm nitrate and cephalopods have been shown to kill more than 20 ppm (some studies show even lower) has been shown to cause blue-baby syndrome in humans, so why should long-term exposure to higher nitrate does not adversely affect the fish?
For the full article can be found at this URL: “AQUARIUM disease prevention, basic principles of prevention of diseases in aquariums
”Or for my aquarium reference articles with links to dozens of aquatic information, subj: Aquarium and Pond Information: well-researched and up to date aquarium and pond information, articles, answers, help and links
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